Most finishes protect the surface of wooden furniture by forming a protective layer. Repairing a damaged finishing layer only works to the affected depth. Work carefully on any surface and do not remove the finish more than necessary. This article describes these simple techniques that can help remove dirt, blush, and other discoloration from the surface of wooden furniture.
Repairs that involve complete removal of damaged finishes (deep scratches, scratches, burns, or other damage) also include repairs in the repair area. Batting is not always easy and not always successful, especially on colored surfaces. If the damage is not so serious, it is worth a try. If you need to touch multiple areas of a surface, it’s probably best to completely refine the surface or furniture.
To dye some parts of the surface, use an oily stain that matches the surrounding stain. Maybe you need to mix the dyes to get a good match. Before working on the finished surface, test for dirt on unobtrusive pieces of wood.
Before applying the stain, prepare to finish the damaged area. No need to seal. Stain the damaged area with an artist brush or a clean cloth to cover the entire exposed area. Let the stain sit for 15 minutes, then wipe it off with a clean cloth. If the color is too light, apply another stain, wait 15 minutes and clean again. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied with the color. Then dry the dirt according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Lightly blur the colored surface with No. 0000 and wipe with an antistatic cloth. Apply a new coat of the same finish (varnish, permeable resin, shell, or shell) already on the surface to the newly colored area and blend the new finish over the old surrounding finish. Let the new finish dry for a day or two and lightly polish the patched area with steel wool. 0000. Wash the entire surface with hard adhesive wax and buff to give it a shine.
The spot repainting and other basic repair techniques mentioned in this article will help improve the appearance of wooden furniture, despite widespread use of all kinds.
- Vacuum to remove mold
- White spot
- Blush
- Black spot
- Ink stain
- Grease, tar, paint, crayon, lipstick stains
- Wash dirt and gums
1.Vacuum to remove mold
To remove mold and mold, start by vacuuming the wooden furniture with a soft brush. Wipe with a cloth moistened with soapy water. Rinse and wipe with a dry cloth. Then apply a layer of wax to protect the surface.
2.White spot
Shellac and shellac finishes are not water and alcohol resistant. Glass spills and condensation can leave permanent white spots and rings on these finishes. To get rid of these white spots, first try polishing the surface with liquid furniture polish. Polish the surface firmly. If this does not work, gently wipe the colored surface with denatured alcohol. Use as little alcohol as possible. If it is too much, the finish will be impaired. If polishing or alcohol treatment does not remove the white spots, the damaged finish should be treated with an abrasive. Light abrasives can be purchased at household goods stores. To make your own mild abrasive, mix tobacco ash with a few drops of vegetable oil, light mineral oil, or flaxseed oil into the paste. Rub the azole paste over the colored areas along the grain of the wood, then wipe the surface with a soft cloth. Repeat the steps as needed. Stubborn stains may require some applications. Then wash and polish the entire surface.
If rubbing with ash does not help, cover the dirty area with a mixture of rottenstone and flaxseed oil. Mix rotten stones and oil into a fine paste and lightly rub the paste along the grain on the stain. Lottenstone is a fast-cutting abrasive, so rub it carefully. Check the surface regularly to make sure it is not cut too deep. When the white spots disappear, stop rubbing and wipe the wood with a soft cloth. Next, apply hard furniture twice and polish the wood to give it a shine.
3.Blush
Blush, which is a large area or white haze throughout the furniture, is a common problem with old lacquers and lacquer finishes. The discoloration is caused by moisture and may be removed in the same way as removing white spots. Polish the surface lightly and evenly with no. 0000 is moistened with flaxseed oil. Work with wood grain, rubbing the entire surface evenly until the white haze disappears. Then wipe the wood with a soft cloth, apply hard furniture twice, and polish the surface to give it a shine. Sometimes the blush can be removed by reassembling. If the surface is cracked or wavy, it should be redissolved without rubbing with steel wool. If the haze disappears without rubbing or reassembling, the furniture needs to be refurbished.
4.Black spot
Black stains are caused by water that has completely penetrated the finish and penetrated the wood. It cannot be removed without compromising the finish. If the stain is on a well-defined surface, it may be possible to remove the finish from this surface alone. If not, the entire piece of furniture needs to be disassembled. After removing the finish, bleach the entire colored surface with an oxalic acid solution. Then repeat as needed.
5.Ink Stain
Ink stains such as black water stains that have penetrated the finish cannot be removed without refining. Dirt that is not so bad can sometimes be removed. Lightly puff the colored areas with a cloth moistened with mineral spirit. Then rinse the wood with clean water on a soft cloth. Allow the surface to dry completely before washing and polishing.
If the ink does not come off, lightly rub the dirty area along the grain. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirit. Then clean, wash and polish the surface. This process can damage the finish. If necessary, repeat the finishing of the damaged area as described below. If that part is severely damaged, the entire surface or furniture will need to be repaired.
6.Grease, tar, paint, crayon, lipstick stains
These stains usually only affect the finished surface. To remove wet paint, use a soft cloth with the appropriate solvent. Use mineral spirits for oil paints and water for latex paints. To remove dry paint and other materials, carefully lift the debris from the surface with the edge of the putty knife. Do not scratch the tree. If it gets scratched, the finish will get scratched. No if the surface material is removed. Polish the area very lightly along the grain with. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirit. Then wash and polish the entire surface.
7.Wash dirt and gums
Laundry and glue usually come off easily but should be removed carefully to prevent damage to the finish. To make the wax or chewing gum brittle, press it down with an ice pack wrapped in a towel or paper towel. Hardens the sediment. Then lift it with a thumbnail. Hardened wax or chewing gum should be removed from the surface with slight pressure. Repeat the application of ice as needed. Do not scratch the deposit. If it gets scratched, the finish will get scratched.
No, when the wax or adhesive is completely removed. Polish the area very lightly along the grain with. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirit. Then wash and polish the entire surface.
For spot repainting, an unpredictable and not always successful technique, when the entire thickness of the finish needs to be removed, or when wood damage spreads under the finish, especially when dyeing is required. Get involved. See the next section for more information on how to repair this wood.
